The Architecture of Phnom Penh

Monday, January 24, 2011


The Architecture of Phnom Penh

Architecturally speaking, Phnom Penh is a comparatively new city. Prior to the late 19th century the city was but a few pagodas and clusters of wooden structures along the riverfront. Almost every currently existing structure was built after the beginning of the French colonial period in 1863. ‘Chinese shophouse’ style buildings dominate the city, characterized by deep narrow apartments made up of a combined ground-floor business-front and upstairs residence. Standing in distinctive difference, old European influenced colonial period structures are interspersed through the central city. At the height of the colonial period Phnom Penh was reputed to be the most beautiful city in French Indochina - recalling Paris in its manicured parks and picturesque boulevards lined with ornate villas. Though sometimes difficult to see through the grime and disrepair of years of hardship and neglect, much of that beauty still exists.


See History of Phnom Penh for more.

Architecture Tour and Sites of Architectural Interest

The historical architecture of the city may be divided into three broad categories:

1) The ubiquitous ‘Chinese shophouse’ style structures, some as old as the late 19th century but most from later periods.


2) Late-19th/early-20th century French Colonial buildings encompassing a range of influences and styles. Early villa-style residences and public buildings display an eclectic mix of European influences. Slightly later structures such as Phsar Thmei reflect the art deco movement and other ‘modern’ western styles of the period. Also of this period, ‘Colonial Traditional’ style buildings such as the National Museum that draw heavily on traditional Cambodian themes. Most of Phnom Penh’s colonial-era highlights are located within the city center with clusters near the Royal Palace, around Post Office Square and Wat Phnom, and dotting Norodom Blvd. from Sihanouk Blvd to Wat Phnom.


3) ‘New Khmer Architecture’ of the late-1950s/60s, such as the Chaktomuk Theatre and Independence Monument, built in the post-Independence ‘Golden-era’ and displaying a modern but distinctively Cambodian direction. Few examples exist in the city center.

See the city center map below for sites of architectural interest and a suggested walking tour route. The route passes many of the better French colonial buildings as well as examples of later architecture. Due primarily to proximity, very few examples of New Khmer Architecture are included. Also not listed below, the National Museum and Royal Palace should be included in any tour. The whole route takes about 4 hours on foot. Faster by cyclo or motodup.



AA1: Villa Late 19th century Sino-Khmer villa, displaying a mix of western architectural styles. In very good condition. Currently the offices of UNESCO.
A2: Villa Picturesque late 19th century villa in a dilapidated state.
A3: Old Royal Villa ‘No Problem Building’ Constructed c. 1905. One of the few remaining royal villas. Good condition.
A4: Villa Classic colonial era villa constructed c. 1905. Currently houses The Colonial Bar.
A6: Block of apartments/shops Constructed circa 1905.
A7: 1935-45 Apartments Distinctive art deco style apartment block attached to the Lux Cinema, much of the frontage hidden by a modern facade.
A8: Villa Constructed c. 1920. Small, colonial era villa.
A10: Block of shop houses Late 19th century in poor condition, buried is modern facades and signage.
A11: Block of apartments/shops A classic block of Phnom Penh architecture displaying a mix of periods from the 1930s(at the market end) through the 60s.
A12: Phsar Thmey Unique domed art deco market structure built 1935-37. See page 28 for more.
A13: Hotel Le Royal Opened 1929. Fully and sensitively restored. Currently a luxury hotel.
A14: Public Library Constructed in the early 20th century in neo-classical Greek style. Open to the public.
A15: Former Treasury Building constructed in the 1890s. Several buildings along Street 106 are late-19th/early-20th century. The boulevard park along Street 106 was a canal until the 1930s. Note the modern faux-Naga Bridge on Norodom Blvd, an echo of a real bridge there in the 30s.
A16: 1960s office block
A17: Apartments Colonial period apartments from the 1930s or 40s displaying a unique Mediterranean style.
A18: Intersection 130/15 Each corner of the intersection has a building from a different period: c. 1905, c. 1940 (art moderne) and from the 1980s.
A19: International Hotel Constructed circa 1905. Unique tower structure. Early signage still visible. Poor condition.
A20: Post Office/Post Office square The post office building was constructed in the 1890s and still operating as the central post office. Many of the building on and around the square are turn of the century. Best photos in the morning hours.
A21: Former Central Police Station Constructed in the 1890s. Site used extensively in movie ‘City of Ghosts.’ Best photos in the morning hours.
A22: French Colonial Chamber of Commerce On Post Office Square. Constructed early 20th century.
A23: Former Banque de l'Indochine building Late 19th century bank building. Owned by the Van family after 1960. Now fully restored to its former grandeur and containing Van’s Restaurant.
A24: Chaktomuk Conference Hall Constructed in 1960-61. ‘Golden era’ architecture by Vann Molyvann.



For more on the architecture of Phnom Penh check out the books: ‘Phnom Penh Then and Now,’ ‘Cultures of Independence’ and ‘Building Cambodia: New Khmer Architecture 1953-1970.’ See book page for more on books.

Khmer Architecture Tours (www.ka-tours.org) offers regularly scheduled lectures and guided architectural tours of the city focusing primarily on 'New Khmer Architecture.' Cyclo tours of central Phnom Penh every other Wednesday. See the website for schedule.

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Phnom Penh and Surrounding

PHNOM PENH CITY
Phnom Penh was founded by a rich old lady named Penh, who house was not far from the river bank, on a knoll on the eastern side of small hill. One day when the water had overflowed she went down to the river bank and found a large Koki tree drifting down the river. She immediately called her neighbors to get into a boat to catch that tree. After taking it to the bank, she cleaned out the mud and discovered four bronze Buddha statues and one stone Buddha in the hollow tree. Lady Penh and her neighbors exulted in their discovery. They brought all the statues to Lady Penh’s house. Then she asked the people to build a small cottage for them in front of her house and to build up a hill “Phnom” nearby.
After that, she had the Koki sawn up for wood to make a sanctuary. In 1372, as a result of the firm support and assistance of her neighbors, Lady Penh built up a sanctuary on the “Phnom” and covered it with grass called “Sbov Phlaing”. The sanctuary housed the four bronze statues, whereas the stone statue, she put at the foot of the “Phnom” to the east. When the work was finished, the monks were invited to settle at the foot of the “Phnom” to the west. Then, they called it “What Phnom Daun Penh” (old lady Penh’s Pagoda).

In 1434, King Ponhea Yat moved the capital from Bassac City (in ancient Kampong Cham Province) to Phnom Daun Penh. The sanctuary built by Lady Penh had been removed, but the King decided to construct a new one. Then he tried to build up the hill and constructed a brick stupa on top.

After the inauguration, the King named the hill “Preah Chedei Paravata”, but nowadays it is simply called Wat Phnom.

The first establishment did not last long, the capital moved from one place to Phnom Daun Penh again and remains up to the present time.

Phnom Penh covers an area of 290 kilometer square with 2 million inhabitants. It is a major industrial, commercial, communication, and tourism center for home and world services. Valuable tropical products can be found here including seafood, fresh water food, delicious fruit, handicrafts and articles. The city offers tourists a lot of modern hotels and restaurants with diversified service.

ROYAL PALACE
Built in 1866 by King Norodom, the Royal Palace is now home to His Majesty Preah Bat Samdech Preah Norodom Sihanouk is the King of Cambodia, and Her Majesty Preah Reach Akka Mohesey Norodom Monineath Sihanouk is the Queen. The Palace is actually a number of structures within a pagoda-style compound. An awe-inspiring sight the throne room (the main building), has a tiered roof topped by a 59 meter tower.

SILVER PAGODA
Located within the Royal Palace compound, the Silver Pagoda is so named because of its floor which is made up of 5,000 silver tiles. The treasures are a solid gold Buddha encrusted with 9,584 diamonds and weighing 90 kilo and a small 17th century emerald and baccarat crystal Buddha.



NATIONAL MUSEUM

It houses of Khmer art, especially sculptures, from different periods of Cambodian history, 19th century dance costumes, royal barges and palanquins. On display inside are more than 5,000 works of art.

WAT PHNOM

Wat Phnom is a famous city landmark. This symbol of the Phnom Penh Capital was built in 1434 to house the sacred relics. Today Wat Phnom remains the highest artificial hill in Phnom Penh and centre of many forms of leisure activities.

INDEPENDENCE MONUMENT

It commemorates the end of Cambodia's rule by France in 1953. The Naga motif can be seen in historic, culture and modern business contexts, as a symbol of the country. It's also used to commemorate to the soul of fallen combatants who laid down their lives for freedom of the country.

MARKET
A shopping spree starts at the local markets. Phnom Penh has many markets. The huge yellow domed Central Market (Phsar Thmey) is the place to pick up gold and silver jewellery. Tuol Tom Pong Market and Olympic Market offer antique collectors of genuine articles. Shopping bargains can be found in intricate stone and wood carvings, Cambodia hand woven-silk, and their silversmith expertise dates from the 11th century. Visitors should remember to be relaxed when bargaining, and to enjoy themselves. If they are not frustrated when they are not understood very well they will come away with a cheap and interesting souvenir.

SURROUNDING PHNOM PENH

TA PROHM TONLE BATI
This 13th century temple, build by King Jayavarman VII, was dedicated to Brahmanism and Buddhism. It is located in Bati district, Takeo Province, 35 Km south of Phnom Penh. It can be reached via National road No2.



NEANG KHMAU

Built of bricks and sand-stones in the 6th century, located in Takeo province 58 km south of Phnom Penh. This temple can reach by road No.2. Phnom Chiso or Surya Parvata The mountain temple was built of late rite brick and sandstone in the 11th century. The mountain is about 100 meters high with stone-made two stairs. One can reach the top by the western stair with 206 steps only 30 minutes, whereas the northern one with 434 steps lasts one hour. The temple can be reach by national road No.2

ANGKOR BOREI
It is a town in the area of several ruins and archaeological digs. The area contains artifacts dating from Funan (4th & 5th century) and Water Chenla (8th century) as well as later Angkorian period. The prasat ruins on top of nearby Phnom Da are 11th century. There is a small museum in the town.


PHNOM OUDONG

It is situated in Ponhea Leu district, Kandal province and 45 km north of Phnom Penh. One can reach it by road No 5. Phnom Oudong is also called Phnom Preah Reach Trap, Phnom Atharreus and Phnom Preah Chetareus. It is a mountain which is rich in cultural patrimonies. It used to be a former Khmer’s capital city in 1618 - 1866.


KOH DACH

The island is located 30 Km along the Mekong River. On Koh Dach once can visit a silk weaving village and watch the woven silk on old looms. The island is also famous for its handcraft production, pottery osier craftwork, woodcarving, painting and jewelry cutting. Koh Dach can be reached via Road No 6A and by boat. It is a scenic route along the Mekong River, with its many fishing villages.

READ MORE - Phnom Penh and Surrounding

Tourist Attractions - Phnom Penh

The Royal Palace The National Museum The Silver Pagoda Wat Phnom Wat Ounalom Mekong Island Angkor Borie
Toul Sleng & Choeung Ek Koh Dach Sunset Cruise on the Mekong & Tonle Sap Baset Oudong Wat Nokor Tonle Baty
Prasat Neang Khmao Phnom Chiso
Phnom Tamao Sambo Prey Kuk

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museum in phnom pehn

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